From the BBC:
“Ukraine
holds borscht soup fest with political flavour”
Ukraine is
holding a national online cook-in on Friday as part of a drive to get Unesco
recognition of borscht - beetroot soup - as a Ukrainian dish. The event is
taking place on YouTube. The campaign has a rather sour flavour, however, as
borscht - known as "borshch" in Ukraine - is also a staple dish in
Russian and Polish cuisine. The Polish version is called "barszcz". The
UN's Intangible Cultural Heritage list recognises dishes and cooking methods
specific to certain countries. The Ukrainian Ministry of Culture invited a
celebrity chef, Yevhen Klopotenko, to supervise the cook-in, involving 25
participants from all regions of the country of 44 million. Each can show off a
regional recipe for borscht on YouTube. While beetroot is the basic ingredient,
the soup comes in many versions and there is no single Ukrainian style. The
government campaign has added a new twist to the long-running rivalry between
Ukraine and Russia, who have been in conflict since 2014, when Russia annexed
Ukraine's Crimea peninsula. Late last year, the Russian government tweeted that
borscht was "one of Russia's most famous and beloved dishes and a symbol
of traditional cuisine". That riled many people in Ukraine, journalist
Roman Lebed of BBC Ukrainian commented. "In light of current affairs, it
feels like part of propaganda," he told the BBC'S The Fifth Floor
programme.
Government
intervention Ukraine's Culture Minister Oleksandr Tkachenko said
"borscht is a Ukrainian dish - we know this and more and more foreigners
understand it". In December, Mr Tkachenko took part in a
borscht-cooking contest with other Ukrainian ministers. He and Deputy
Prime Minister Olha Stefanishyna cooked a version with cherries, while two
other ministers cooked a fried cabbage variety. The judges preferred the cherry
one, but the audience award went to the cabbage one. According to
Ukrainians, the first written mention of borscht dates back to 1584 and the
diary of a German traveller, Martin Gruneweg, from his visit to Ukraine's
capital, Kyiv. Lebed's attachment to borscht goes back a long way: he
remembers fondly how his great grandmother cooked it when he was a child. His
grandma did too: "she had her own garden, so all the ingredients were
fresh - one of the brightest memories from my childhood". Roman
Lebed compared the Ukrainian love of borscht to the Italians' pride in
minestrone, with a long list of ingredients: "Beetroot, cabbage, carrots,
onion, garlic, sweet paprika, some add some potatoes - I don't - some tomato,
some meat, parsley, dill, bay leaf, black pepper, salt. "My mum
adds some cherry for fruitiness, some sour cream and fresh greens on top. You
can also add some mashed lard - I don't like it, but it's also
traditional." In December, Russian comedian Andrei Bocharov created
a Twitter storm, drawing thousands of comments, after posting a photo of
"Russian borscht". That month too, the Ukrainian embassy in
Paris complained to the Michelin Guide for its description of borscht as a
"Russian dish". Michelin apologised for "gastronomic
carelessness with an unexpected political connotation".
^ Whether borscht
is Ukrainian, Polish or Russian I really like it – as long as no one adds sour
cream to it. ^
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