From Yahoo/NYT:
“This Year's Thanksgiving
Feast Will Wallop the Wallet”
Thanksgiving 2021 could be the
most expensive meal in the history of the holiday. Caroline Hoffman is already
stashing canned pumpkin in the kitchen of her Chicago apartment when she finds
some for under a dollar. She recently spent almost $2 more for the vanilla
she’ll need to bake pumpkin bread and other desserts for the various
Friendsgiving celebrations she’s been invited to. Matthew McClure paid 20% more
this month than he did last year for the 25 pasture-raised turkeys he plans to
roast at the Hive, the Bentonville, Arkansas, restaurant where he is the
executive chef. And Norman Brown, director of sweet-potato sales for Wada Farms
in Raleigh, North Carolina, is paying truckers nearly twice as much as usual to
haul the crop to other parts of the country. “I never seen anything like it,
and I’ve been running sweet potatoes for 38 or 39 years,” Brown said. “I don’t
know what the answer is, but in the end it’s all going to get passed on to the
consumer.”
Nearly every component of the
traditional American Thanksgiving dinner, from the disposable aluminum turkey
roasting pan to the coffee and pie, will cost more this year, according to
agricultural economists, farmers and grocery executives. Major food companies
like Nestlé and Procter & Gamble have already warned consumers to brace for
more price increases. Granted, last year the cost of a Thanksgiving dinner for
10 was the lowest it had been since 2010, according to the American Farm
Bureau, whose annual survey of large dinners will be released Nov. 18. But because
of the pandemic, fewer people bought for big gatherings, and turkey prices were
kept low to entice shoppers. This year, turkey prices are likely to hit record
highs, and the cost of many foods has jumped sharply.
There is no single culprit. The
nation’s food supply has been battered by a knotted supply chain, high
transportation expenses, labor shortages, trade policies and bad weather.
Inflation is at play, too. In September, the Consumer Price Index for food was
up 4.6% from a year ago. Prices for meat, poultry, fish and eggs soared 10.5%. Weeks
before the holiday feast, home cooks have started shopping, hoping to get ahead
of shortages and price creep. “I picture a perfect storm of increased demand
and lack of supply,” said Matt Lardie, a food writer in Durham, North Carolina,
who has already laid out his Thanksgiving game plan and expects to have some
components in the freezer by next week.
For many cooks, the biggest
expense will be the turkey. By the end of the year, market analysts say, prices
per pound will likely surpass the record Department of Agriculture benchmark
price for turkeys — $1.36, set in 2015. Turkey is more expensive largely
because the price of corn, which most commercial turkeys feed on, more than
doubled in some parts of the country from July 2020 to July 2021. Whole frozen
birds between 8 and 16 pounds already cost 25 cents a pound more than they did
a year ago, according to the weekly Department of Agriculture turkey report
released Friday. The price rises are hitting in a year when COVID vaccines and
loosened health guidelines point to more and bigger holiday celebrations than
in 2020. There will be fewer turkeys on the market, but demand is expected to
be higher, particularly for smaller birds and for more carefully raised and
processed turkeys. Kroger executives are anticipating more of what marketers
call the “premiumization” of Thanksgiving ingredients, with many cooks shopping
for turkeys that are fresh, organic, free-range or processed in ways that
elevate them beyond an inexpensive frozen bird.“Customers aren’t necessarily
going out to restaurants, so they are upping their game in terms of products,”
said Stuart Aitken, the company’s chief Still, plenty of households will be looking
for bargain turkeys and trying to stretch their food budget. “I can buy that
this will be the most expensive Thanksgiving ever, but there’s an
income-inequality story here that matters a lot,” said Trey Malone, an
agricultural economist at Michigan State University. “The rich are going to be
spending more on Thanksgiving than they have ever spent before, but not
everyone is going to be able to do that.”
Packaged dinner rolls will be
pricier because the cost of almost all of the ingredients that commercial
bakers use has gone up. Canned cranberry sauce will cost more because domestic
steel plants have yet to catch up after pandemic shutdowns, and China is
limiting steel production to reduce carbon emissions. As a result, steel prices
have remained more than 200% higher than they were before the pandemic. The
heftier price tag on that turkey-friendly California pinot noir reflects a 25%
surge in energy costs, expensive delays related to labor shortages and the cost
of glass bottles stuck on cargo ships coming from China. The average end-to-end
shipping time from China to the United States was 73 days in September, up from
40 days two years earlier, said Katheryn Russ, a professor of economics at the
University of California at Davis. And shipping expenses, she said, have
tripled. “All of these dynamics are not theoretical,” Russ said. “We can’t lose
sight of how these broader issues hit home.” Extreme weather has made
Thanksgiving ingredients cost more, too. A late-spring drought in the Midwest
damaged the sugar beet crop, which had already been hurt by freezing weather in
2019. Hurricane Ida shut cane-sugar refineries in the South. Grape, nut and
citrus crops in California have suffered under this year’s drought. Brazil,
which supplies the world with more coffee than any other country, has endured
severe drought and then a surprise July frost, resulting in less coffee and
higher prices.
Even the basic materials — like
wooden pallets and cardboard containers — that farmers need to get their crops
from the field to distributors are either hard to find or much more expensive. “Everything
you go to order, either you can’t get it, or you shake your head and go, ‘How
much?’ ” said Jim Kent, an owner of the 100-acre Locust Grove Fruit Farm in
Milton, New York. Although grocery-store executives predict spot shortages on
some items, economists like Russ say there is no indication the panic-buying
that was a hallmark of pandemic shopping in 2020 will resurface. That’s not
reassuring to some home cooks, who are worried about not being able to find
smaller turkeys, canned pumpkin or the particular kind of stuffing mix they
like. Hoffman, a Chicago resident who works in public relations and blogs about
food, recently had a difficult time finding cream of tartar and mini
marshmallows. “Even finding cans of pumpkin has been honestly difficult,” she
said, “so as I see them, I grab a few.” As food prices continue to climb, she
has to budget more and search out bargains. That’s not always easy when the
holidays demand specific ingredients. “I dread buying vanilla,” she said.
^ Thanksgiving 2020 you could
find everything and it was cheaper, but you weren’t supposed to celebrate with
others. Thanksgiving 2021 you can’t find everything and it is more expensive,
but you are supposed to celebrate with others. ^
https://www.yahoo.com/news/years-thanksgiving-feast-wallop-wallet-184546687.html
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