Islamic Grozny

From the MT:

"Grozny: Islamic Metropolis Rising Out of Rubble"

Not long ago, Grozny, the capital of Chechnya, was called "the most devastated city on Earth."

The city was ravaged by two wars in the 1990s to early 2000s. The Associated Press image of a Russian soldier lighting a cigarette from a pile of burning trash in the middle of a heavily damaged street became an internationally recognized icon for the shattered city. But walking Grozny's streets today, that apocalyptic feeling is hard to associate with the attractive and modern city rebuilt out of the rubble. The city's entire history is rife with military conflicts and fits well with poet Mikhail Lermontov's description of North Caucasian peoples: "Their god is freedom, their law is war."

In 1818, General Alexei Yermolov built the Groznaya ("terrible, fearsome") fortress — a major military outpost used in Russia's conquest of the Caucasus. But in 1870, the citadel lost its strategic importance and was incorporated as a town.  In 1944, the city's entire Chechen population, along with all other Chechens and Ingush in the country, was deported to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan after Soviet authorities accused them of collaborating with Nazi troops. They were banned from the region until 1957. In 1991, Grozny became the capital of the republic of Ichkeria, which proclaimed independence from Russia at the time of the Soviet Union's breakup. As a result, Russian troops invaded the city in 1994-95, launching the heaviest bombing campaign in Europe since the end of World War II and causing enormous military and civilian casualties. Following the battle, the city was almost completely demolished and conquered by federal authorities. Russian forces had to withdraw from Chechnya after a peace treaty was signed in 1996, and Grozny became a base of operations for Islamic extremists, including Shamil Basayev and Ibn al-Khattab. Federal authorities took action and the city was ravaged by another war in 1999-2000, whose outcome reconfirmed Chechnya's place inside the sovereign Russian Federation. Though a low-intensity conflict with Islamist insurgents is still smoldering in the mountains south of Grozny, today the metropolis does not resemble the war-torn city it used to be.  Grozny City, a glitzy office and residential complex featuring seven skyscrapers, has become a key symbol of the city's resurgence after all the conflict. The central district will soon boast a 300 meter tower now under construction — the tallest building in Russia outside Moscow and among the highest in Europe. The lavish federal spending that allowed Chechen President Ramzan Kadyrov to rebuild Grozny has been praised by some observers but lambasted by others as a "tribute" paid to Chechens and a tool of corruption. The everyday life of the Chechen capital would seem eccentric to a Western observer. Even in the streets of the city, you can see wedding celebrations that involve people shooting in the air and performing the popular Caucasian lezginka dance. In the post-Soviet era, Islam has seen a resurgence in Grozny. Muslim devotion can be felt everywhere in the city, with more and more bearded men, as well as women wearing a hijab (headscarf). During the Kurban Bayram festival, it is common to see sheep's throats being cut in the streets as part of a religious sacrifice. Though distancing himself from the radical Wahhabi branch of Islam espoused by Chechen insurgents, Kadyrov has sought to impose Muslim customs through political means. Since coming to power in 2007, he has required women to don headscarves when entering state buildings. Vigilantes have regularly shot paintball guns at women without a hijab and attacked advertisements featuring bareheaded women. Atypical for a high-ranking official, Kadyrov is an avid fan of photo sharing social network Instagram and has more than 160,000 subscribers. A former insurgent who fought against Russian troops in the 1990s, he has been accused of building an oppressive authoritarian regime. Experts say his clout in the North Caucasus is unsurpassed, with Kadyrov's bodyguards and Chechen police accused of getting away with alleged crimes in other regions, including even Moscow.

What to see if you have two hours:

Stroll along Prospekt Putina — a street that was named after President Vladimir Putin in 2008 and caused a major controversy when critics accused Chechen authorities of promoting a cult of personality. Visit the Akhmad Kadyrov Mosque on Prospekt Putina — the heart of Chechnya and its national symbol. Based on Istanbul's famous Blue Mosque and constructed by Turkish laborers, it is said to be the largest mosque in Europe and is able to hold 10,000 worshippers.

Then take a walk down Ulitsa Mira until Ulitsa Lorsanova, where you will find Ploshchad Chekhova. The main reason why this place is special is that the Groznaya fortress, which gave birth to the city, was previously located here. The next place you can visit is the Avenue of Glory Park, which is famous for its World War II memorial and the monument to the first Chechen President Akhmad Kadyrov. To get here, you should head north from Ulitsa Lorsanova.

What to do if you have two days:

Do not lose the opportunity to savor Grozny's beautiful nature, see waterfalls and get some fresh air. You can also see the city from the mountains — and if you are not afraid to stay there until the evening — enjoy the sunset. You should not take such a trip alone because you could get lost.

To learn more about the history and culture of Chechnya, visit the Akhmad Kadyrov Museum (Ulitsa Mayakovskogo,). It is a luxury place with a 790-lamp chandelier containing 20 kilograms of pure gold. The museum is devoted to Akhmad Kadyrov, president of Chechnya from 2003-04 and Ramzan's father, and historical events such as World War II.

Nightlife:

If you feel an urge to leave your hotel, there are some options for entertainment. Alcoholic beverage sales in Grozny are severely restricted because of Islamic traditions. Walking through the city, you can find half a dozen places within a two-mile radius that openly sell beer. Finding vodka would be even more difficult.

Culture tips:

Neither a woman's hair nor her legs should be completely visible on Grozny's streets. It is better to avoid clothes that could attract a man's attention. Do not forget to take a headscarf with you because there are places where women are not allowed to enter without wearing it. Women in Chechnya do not smoke, but if you cannot help it, smoke in a place where you stay unseen.

For men it is not polite to shake a woman's hand while introducing yourself, and it is better not to touch women at all. Smoking is normal for men in Chechnya, but if you speak with older people, you should either hide your cigarette or throw it away before starting the conversation.

^ I would rather see Grozny continued to have ruins than have it run by a presidential dictatorship where strict Islamic law is forced on the people there. It seems that Moscow allows this to happen because it doesn't want to be a hypocrite (not allowing a dictatorship) and also because I'm sure they get their cut. Corruption and bribery is a way of life in all of Russia (Chechnya included) but what shouldn't be allowed is going against the Russian Constitution that allows for the freedom of religion and forcing Islam and women to cover their heads is just plain wrong. ^

http://www.themoscowtimes.com/beyond_moscow/grozny.html